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Mad Inventor™
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And the conversation went:

Me: Where do you want the new hob?

Her: I CAN'T visualize it without seeing it!

Placing the actual hob on the worktop wasn't right as it was apparently "sitting too high up". So.........a la Blue Peter, one bin bag and some kid's glitter glue later we have:

Option 1: She's not keen as too much space to the right where the kids will dump their stuff

SAM_4536.jpg


or

Option 2: She likes as she wants the 400mm bin cupboard on the end and there's only a little space to the side. BUT I've said it'll take too much out of the cupboard sides, not a good idea having a hob over the paper recycling bin and the little s@ds will get as far as hand round the corner and slam the plates/cups etc down on the hob when they've finished.

SAM_4535.jpg


AND WE HAVE A DECISION! OPTION 1 GETS THE GO AHEAD! Going to hang this one out, make a template and route it!

p.s. It's taking ages to heat the pans up any suggestions?

:coat

 
Nice idea! you've got more patience than me......"so I'll be putting the hob here"...

 
Im not sure what to say about it. Well done and nice job but I cant ever see myself in a million years ever doing that!

 
Well, got jiggy with it and found an old bit of floorboard:

SAM_4537.jpg


Just bought one of those cheapo Aldi routers on a whim, tbh not really man enough either in terms of power or cutter quality for this job but thought I'd give it a go. Deffo do not buy one and expect to make decent worktop joints. I've done all mine with the 1/2" router and they are spot on! I'll use the Aldi one just for trimming the edges on Conti board but couple it with some decent bits!

Anyway, got there in the end, nice square hole BUT hard work with this:

SAM_4539.jpg


 
Does it need to be?
Yes, ideally. I think where Dan is coming from (and fair play to him) is the guide to the building regs that suggests 300mm as a minimum distance for a socket to a hob (or sink). I think the 300mm dimn stems from the traditional cooker switch that had the integral socket outlet so conceivably you could have an appliance plugged in and the lead trailing over the hot hob. Though not, I don't think a specific reg (the 300mm), I guess regs wise on the burning of leads front then 522.8.1 "A wiring system shall be selected and erected to avoid during installation, use or maintenance, damage to the sheath or insulation of cables and their terminations" could be applied. The IEE guide dimension is I guess a practical interpretation. So, I have a switch, not a socket BUT it has very low (if any) IP rating. Now we're getting into external influences AD & AB - presence of water or high humidity and I would concede that steam from a pan could be an issue but more so with a socket than a switch IMO. I was keen NOT to put the switch too far to the left as it would have been over the deep worktop and what's worse, not be able to get to the switch easily or the chance of steam getting in. The question of "where" to put the hob was up in the air and only decided upon last night so a bit of "real world" coming into it. To move anything now would mess up the equi-spacing of the adjacent fittings and I'm NOT even going to go there. Not forgetting an element of P.P.P.P.P.P on my part!

 
Is that cooker point 12 inches away from the hop it self?
Ever so SORRY! Just realized that in post #12 I called you Dan!

Should have read: "Yes, ideally. I think where Gavin is coming from (and fair play to him) is the guide to the building regs.................."

 
Odd............this Israei induction hob asks for 2.5mm, H05VV-F cable which is (only) up to 60deg. I only have H05V2V2-F left over from the oven , good for 90deg so will use that. The manual blats on about REMOVING the whole back of the base unit and giving distances to combustible surfaces then specs IMO a low temp cable when they're so worried seemingly about heat. Making MAJOR mods to the base unit! Doing a new back piece with mesh panel. Then the cable is rated at 25A and the hob 7.3kW. Appreciate diversity but never dealt with an induction one. The thing has a "BOOST" function and the manual says "activating the boost function can exceed the maximum power and the integrated power management will be activated". Can't help considering the Christmas Dinner Panic Mode when everything goes on at once! I presume induction hobs "sense" the temperature somehow so in effect are thermostatically controlled like a "normal" hob i.e. not all on full load at the same time.

 
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